•  Take a piece of string or paper and wrap it around your finger
•  Make sure it is not wrapped too tight or the ring will be too small
•  Take a pen and mark it were it meets the other side
•  Straighten the piece of paper or string out, and measure it.
•  Compare it to the chart below
•  The chart shows different ring sizes for different countries

Until around the 1950s, there was no globally accepted standard for describing or grading diamonds until the GIA or the Gemological Institute of America created the 4Cs: Color, Clarity, Cut and Carat Weight. Until then, there was no universal method for determining the quality of a diamond.

Color:
A diamonds Color grade is based on the lack of color ranging from colorless to dark yellow represented by the letters D through Z. See the illustration below.

After Cut, Color is generally considered the second most import characteristic when choosing a diamond. If you can afford it, nothing tops a diamond with a color of D or F, but most diamonds are sold in the near colorless G to I range. Unless the two types are placed side by side, most people cannot tell the difference.

Clarity:
Clarity is defined by the lack of blemishes and inclusions found on and in a diamond. Blemishes are found on the outside of a diamond and inclusions are found on the inside. Clarity grades range from Flawless to Included represented by FL to I3. See illustration below.

Some common inclusions include small internal breaks called feathers, crystals that were trapped during the diamonds formation and graining caused by an irregular atomic structure. Blemishes are mainly caused by cutting, polishing and wearing of a diamond.

It is extremely rare to find a diamond that is flawless and most diamonds sold in the jewelry industry range from the I2 to SI1 grade. Many people think clarity is the most important factory in the beauty of a diamond, but that is simply untrue. A diamond with a superior Cut and Color grade is much more important to the amount of sparkle a diamond produces.

Cut:
The Cut grade is the most important factor in the beauty of a diamond. What makes a diamond beautiful is the amount of sparkle (fire, scintillation and brightness) it produces and nothing determines that more than the Cut. The Cut grades range from Excellent to Poor. See illustration below.

Three major components determine a diamonds sparkle and they are fire, scintillation and brightness. Fire describes the flashes of color emitted from a diamond. Scintillation describes the flashes of light when the diamond, the light or the observer moves. Brightness is a combination of all white light reflected from the inside and outside of the diamond.

Below is an illustration of the 5 major components of a polished diamond, the table, the crown, the girdle, the pavilion and the culet. The symmetry and proportions of these components determines the cut grade of a diamond.

Carat Weight:
The final C refers to the Carat weight of a diamond. One carat equals 200 milligrams. Diamonds under one carat are commonly divided into pointers where one pointer equals 0.001 carat. For example, a diamond with a carat weight of 0.25 carats equals 25 pointers. Or a one carat diamond equals 100 pointers.

Ladies Bedat No. 3 Watch with a Silver Metal Flake Dial.

Specs:

• Model #: B384.011.600
• Case Size: 22mm x 35mm
• Silver Metal Flake Dial
• Swiss Quartz Movement
• Fixed Polished Stainless Steel Bezel
• Roman Numeral Markers
• Polished Metallic Blue Hands
• Scratch Resistant Sapphire Crystal
• Pull Out Crown
• Screw Down Case Back
• Polished Stainless Steel Bracelet
• Deployment Clasp
• 7″ Adjustable Bracelet
• Water Resistant to 50M

All modern TAG watches have a model number on top of the serial number on the back.  All watches produced from 1992 to 2002 have a model number that starts with two letters and ends with four numbers.  TAG watches produced after 2002 began to add a third letter at the beginning of the numbers.

The first letter of the model number will either be a W or a C.  The W signifies that the watch is an Analog and the C refers to a Chronograph. The next one or two letters, depending on the production date of the watch as discussed above, corresponds to the model or series of watch.  For example, K relates to a 2000 Classic, V is the designation for a Carrera, and JF refers to the Current Link. These represent only a few of the numerous letter designations used for TAG watches.

The numbers located in the model number also indicate specific information pertaining to the timepiece.  The first number refers to the type of movement in the watch. A 1 signifies Quartz movement, a 2 shows an Automatic movement, a 3 indicates a Manual Wind movement, a 5 refers to a Chronometer movement, and a 7 relates to a Hybrid Electro-Mechanical movement.

The second digit corresponds to the size of the timepiece. A 1 denotes men’s, a 2 indicates midsize or unisex, a 3 designates a lady’s watch and a 4 refers to a lady’s mini.

The third number refers to the material the watch case is made of.  A number 1 designates stainless steel, a 2 refers to stainless steel and 18K gold plating, a 3 denotes 18K gold plating, a 4 indicates solid 18K gold, and finally, a 5 represents stainless steel and solid 18K gold.

The fourth number indicates the dial color, although this digit can change from model to model.  On some models, this final number is represented by a letter instead.  Again, each model may exhibit this fourth number differently.  As an example, on some watches 0 refers to black and 1 relates to silver.  Unfortunately, this is not a rule, so your TAG may not follow this example.  Understanding that the fourth number is referring to the dial color will be the best indication of what is designated by this digit.

TAG Heuer watches are elegant and high-quality.  Appreciating the detail of each watch can help you to become more familiar with the brand.  Understanding the designations of each character in the model number will allow you to gain more knowledge about your specific timepiece.

Vermeil is a French word that means the combination of silver, gold, and other precious metals. Vermeil jewelry is generally sold as a solid sterling silver base coated with gold. It is available in 10K, 14K, 18K, or 24K varieties. In the United States, jewelry stores cannot label their items as vermeil unless the sterling silver base is coated with a minimum of 2.5 microns of 10K gold. One micron equals 1/1000 of a millimeter or 0.001 millimeters. For perspective, a dime is 1250 microns thick.

While this may seem thin, it is actually much more durable than regular gold plating. The process of creating vermeil involves electrolysis. A sterling silver piece of jewelry is placed in an ionic substance. The ionic substance, either molten or dissolved in a suitable solvent, is then combined with a direct electric current. This causes a chemical reaction that adheres the gold to the surface of the sterling silver. Previously, gilding was used to create vermeil, but the process includes the use of mercury and has been known to cause severe health problems in jewelry artists, so it is no longer used in most cases.

Gold-plating is a thin layer of gold over any non-precious metal by electrolysis. Most commonly, copper is used, and a thin layer of nickel is placed in between the copper and gold to prevent the piece of jewelry from tarnishing. Because the United States Federal Trade Commission only requires gold-plated jewelry to be 0.175 microns, the layer of gold is considerably thinner than that found on vermeil. This means that the cost of gold-plated jewelry is significantly less, but the layer of gold can wear off very quickly due to environmental factors or average wear and tear.

Vermeil is an excellent choice of material for jewelry, as it provides customers with durability that is not available from regular gold-plated pieces. The thicker layer of gold required on vermeil jewelry provides extra protection against wear that occurs during normal use, without the increased costs found in gold jewelry. Quality vermeil can also last for generations without becoming worn. For example, we have a 1953 Rolex vermeil watch that has very thick coats of 18K plating that has lasted for 50 years without wear due to having much thicker gold than the minimum required by law.

Below is a photograph of a quality vermeil Masonic Ring.

One of the first options to consider is the difference between a quartz watch and a mechanical watch. The movement, maintenance, and sustained value in these watches are dramatically different, and knowing these variations can help narrow down your preferences.

Quartz movement watches are relatively new in the watch market. The Swiss first introduced a quartz watch in 1962, but the Japanese had been working on the technology since 1959. The Japanese introduced the first quartz wristwatch in 1969. Today, most quartz watches are still manufactured in Japan.

Quartz watches are made in two styles: Analog and digital. Analog quartz watches use three hands representing the hours, minutes, and seconds to display time. The modern digital quartz watch uses numbers on a liquid crystal display (LCD) screen to present the time. Both analog and digital quartz functions make use of a battery and quartz crystal. The battery causes the thin sheet of quartz crystal to oscillate or vibrate approximately 32,728 times per second. The vibration produces tiny pulses of electricity that are sent to an internal computer chip at the same constant rate. In an analog quartz watch, this drives the electric motor that allows the analog watch to keep the correct time. In a digital quartz watch the computer chip counts the oscillations and displays the time through the LCD screen. Digital watches are unique in that they do not have gears or moving parts.

Quartz watches are more accurate than mechanical watches, losing only a few seconds per month. In comparison, mechanical watches can lose up to 4 seconds or gain up to 6 seconds every day. Quartz movement watches will require a new battery every 2 to 3 years. Generally, quartz watches are less expensive and require less maintenance, but they will lose their value over time. While they do not require extensive maintenance, they do become obsolete and may require you to purchase a new watch after 20 to 30 years because replacement parts become unavailable.

Mechanical movement watches provide another option for timepieces. The history of the mechanical watch has roots in 1510 Germany, but it was not perfected until 1760 by the British. Today, most mechanical watches are produced in Switzerland. Enthusiasts prefer the mechanical movement because of the craftsmanship that is required to create a mechanical watch and are prepared to pay a premium price for them as a result. The most expensive watch ever sold was a 1933 Patek Philippe for $11 million in 1999.

Mechanical watches make use of an internal balance wheel that oscillates back and forth in response to the steady unwinding of the mainspring. Most mechanical watches oscillate at 21,600, 28,800, and 36,000 beats per hour (BPH). There are two types of winding mechanisms available in mechanical watches. Manual winding watches require the crown to be wound by hand in order to wind up the mainspring. Self-winding automatic watches use the natural movements of the wearer and gravity to turn an internal rotor, which winds the mainspring. Unlike quartz watches that generate power through the battery and use the quartz as the oscillator, mechanical watches use the balance wheel as the oscillator and the power generates from the unwinding of the mainspring.

Left: Self-winding automatic Swiss made ETA 7750 movement from a Breitling Chronomat. Right: Swiss made ETA analog quartz movement.

If regular maintenance is done on a mechanical watch, they typically last much longer than a quartz watch, and their value is more enduring. Maintenance on a mechanical movement watch can be significant, at a cost of $300 to $500, and this service must be completed by a certified watchmaker every 4 to 5 years. This regular examination of the wristwatch can include cleaning, oiling, and the replacement of watch parts in order to ensure the most accurate timekeeping. Even with regular upkeep, however, mechanical watches can lose up to 4 seconds or gain up to 6 seconds per day.

The choice between a quartz movement and a mechanical movement watch is very personal. Learning more about these differences will help you understand the function of your watch and appreciate the internal workings of your investment. Weighing these facts can narrow down the field before you purchase and will help you understand the best maintenance for your timepiece, helping you preserve your investment for years to come.

Dating by the Case:

The date your case was produced can be determined by a code located between the 6 O’clock lugs in newer Breitling models as shown in the picture of the 2006 Breitling Cockpit A49350 below.

On some models, like the new Navitimer Montbrillant Legende, the case and bracelet are made to fit together, therefore, there is not enough space to stamp the production date between the lugs. As a result, the date stamp will be on the back of the bottom lug and not between them.

Dating by the Bracelet:

Similar to the code on the case, Breitling watches with metal bracelets have a date code located on the back of the top bracelet link, as shown in the photograph of the Breitling Chronomat GT below.

Please feel free to contact me if you have any questions or if you have any information that can help everyone. I will gladly add your knowledge to my blog. Our goal is to help everyone understand their Breitling watches!